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出生於威尼斯的羅伯托·科因 (Roberto Coin) 代表自己同名的奢華珠寶系列前往迪拜旅行後,與家人在馬德里度過了假期。
Roberto Coin, the Venice-born founder of his namesake luxury jewelry line, recently spent the holidays in Madrid with his family after a jaunt to Dubai on behalf of his brand.
出生於威尼斯的羅伯托·科因 (Roberto Coin) 是其同名奢華珠寶系列的創始人,最近代表其品牌前往迪拜短途旅行後,與家人在馬德里度過了假期。
“I also hope to [experience] the joy of Miami soon again,” says the jet-setting Coin, whose renowned designs take inspiration from his frequent — and far-flung — travels, as well as his hometown.
「我也希望很快能再次體驗邁阿密的樂趣,」這位坐飛機的科因說道,他著名的設計靈感來自於他頻繁的、遙遠的旅行以及他的家鄉。
“To be honest, I was late in deciding to [pay homage to] my Venetian roots,” says Coin, who founded his company in 1996. In December, he finally unveiled two Venice-themed collections during a spectacular 80th birthday gala — a masked ball in a regal palazzo on the Grand Canal. “Now I feel very proud about collections like Venetian Princess and Palazzo Ducale that link my jewels to my origins.”
「說實話,我很晚才決定向我的威尼斯根源致敬,」Coin 說道,他於1996 年創立了自己的公司。主題系列-大運河上一座富麗堂皇的宮殿舉行假面舞會。 “現在,我對像威尼斯公主 (Venetian Princess) 和公爵宮 (Palazzo Ducale) 這樣將我的珠寶與我的起源聯繫在一起的系列感到非常自豪。”
The former celebrates the City of Canals through a romantic blooming four-petal design featuring an array of black and white diamonds, precious stones and/or pearls on gleaming gold. It feels as if Coin journeyed back to idyllic childhood summers spent with his grandmother in Venice. “It’s a beautiful area where the houses have been built along the banks of the Brenta Riviera,” he told Petite Genève. “Where nature dictates the pace, typical of life in the countryside.” With the latter, Coin honors the majestic Venetian Gothic architecture of his favorite hometown landmark, the Doge’s Palace, through medallions featuring intricate geometric work.
前者透過浪漫綻放的四瓣設計來慶祝運河之城,在閃閃發光的黃金上鑲嵌一系列黑白鑽石、寶石和/或珍珠。科因彷彿回到了與祖母在威尼斯度過的田園詩般的童年夏天。 「這是一個美麗的地區,房子建在布倫塔里維埃拉沿岸,」他告訴《小日內瓦》。 “大自然決定節奏,這是典型的鄉村生活。”科因透過後者,透過帶有複雜幾何圖案的獎章向他最喜歡的家鄉地標——總督宮——雄偉的威尼斯哥德式建築致敬。
Coin has finally returned home, after an ongoing odyssey of travels, in person and via his visionary designs — like the chain-link-filled Navarra collection, which nods toward the multicultural beauty of the Basque and Spanish region. Before founding his self-named jewelry company nearly 30 years ago, Coin also enjoyed a successful career in the international hospitality industry.
在經歷了一場持續不斷的旅行之後,Coin 終於回到了家鄉,親自透過他富有遠見的設計——例如充滿鏈環的 Navarra 系列,該系列向巴斯克和西班牙地區的多元文化之美致敬。近 30 年前,Coin 創立了自己同名的珠寶公司,在此之前,Coin 在國際酒店業也取得了成功的職業生涯。
“I worked in the hotel business in Switzerland, Italy, France and the U.K., and finally opened my hotel, the Duke of Richmond in Guernsey [in 1970],” says Coin, who speaks four languages. “The hotel business and atmosphere greatly influenced me. I learned quickly that the golden rule of hospitality is treating others as you wish to be treated.”
「我在瑞士、義大利、法國和英國從事酒店業務,最後(1970 年)在根西島開設了我的酒店,即里士滿公爵酒店,」會說四種語言的科因說道。 「飯店的生意和氛圍對我影響很大。我很快就了解到,待客之道的黃金法則就是以己之心待人。
Coin has since translated the generous sentiment into his jewelry brand, especially with his signature delicate red ruby hidden on the inside of each piece; the proximity almost caresses the wearer. Many cultures around the world believe wearing rubies against the skin will bring health and happiness — a welcoming message Coin wants to pass onto his clientele.
此後,Coin 將這種慷慨的情感融入了他的珠寶品牌,尤其是每件作品的內部都隱藏著他標誌性的精緻紅寶石;近距離幾乎可以撫摸佩戴者。世界各地的許多文化都相信,在皮膚上佩戴紅寶石會帶來健康和幸福——Coin 希望向他的客戶傳達這一歡迎訊息。
To learn the jewelry business from the ground up, Coin also dedicated himself to, of course, more journeys. “For over seven years, I visited [more than 1,000] factories all over the world,” he says. “Those years influenced me because I was experiencing different countries, cultures, traditions and techniques.”
為了從頭開始學習珠寶業務,Coin 當然也致力於更多的旅程。 「七年多來,我參觀了世界各地的[超過 1,000 家]工廠,」他說。 “那些年影響了我,因為我經歷了不同的國家、文化、傳統和技術。”
Ultimately, for his company headquarters, Coin chose Vicenza, also known as “the City of Gold.” The region manufactures roughly one-fifth of Italy’s gold and jewelry and is renowned for its engineering focus and visionary architecture by Andrea Palladio. “The difference between the rest of the world and Vicenza is related to manufacturing,” explains Coin. “In Vicenza, there was great technology and a truly great investment in machinery. Artisans studied like engineers in order to become able to produce faster and better.”
最終,科因選擇了素有「黃金之城」之稱的維琴察作為他的公司總部。該地區生產了義大利大約五分之一的黃金和珠寶,並以其對工程的關注和安德里亞·帕拉迪奧 (Andrea Palladio) 的富有遠見的建築而聞名。 「世界其他地方與維琴察之間的差異與製造業有關,」科因解釋道。 「維琴察擁有先進的技術和對機械的巨大投資。工匠們像工程師一樣學習,以便能夠更快更好地生產。
Well, Roberto Coin produces 600-plus pieces of glittering, luxurious jewelry a year, while retailing in more than 1,000 shops in more than 60 countries across the globe. Because Coin brings that same creative, hand-craftsmanship-meets-innovation approach to his business and designs.
Roberto Coin 每年生產 600 多件閃閃發光的奢華珠寶,同時在全球 60 多個國家的 1,000 多家商店進行零售。因為 Coin 將同樣的創意、手工藝與創新的方法帶入了他的業務和設計中。
“The skeleton of a simple bangle needs to be made with the highest technology today, as technology allows you to produce it much stronger, with less gold needed and perfect symmetry,” explains Coin. “This is something that would be impossible if it were completed only by hand. Then you must cover the skeleton with beauty — and this is when you need the artisans’ hands. Only wise and capable hands, with the knowledge of tradition and a soul, can create true beauty.”
「簡單手鐲的骨架需要採用當今最高的技術來製造,因為技術可以讓你生產出更堅固的手鐲,所需的黃金更少,並且具有完美的對稱性,」Coin 解釋道。 「這是如果僅靠手工完成是不可能完成的事情。然後你必須用美麗來覆蓋骨架——這就是你需要工匠之手的時候。只有聰明能幹的雙手,加上傳統知識和靈魂,才能創造出真正的美。
After three decades of prolific designs and business-building, Coin still feels an affinity toward his very first collection, Apassionata, which established his ethos. “Even today, it is highly valued by antique dealers. At the time, it was considered impossible to produce,” he says, about the intricate, shimmering basket-weave design that evokes soft, flowing fabrics. Coin also points toward the opulent Cento diamond collection. “A groundbreaking discovery in the world of diamond cutting. With 100 facets, it shines with a new kind of beauty, symbolizing our desire to dress every woman with something truly unique,” Coin says.
經過三十年多產的設計和業務建設,Coin 仍然對他的第一個系列 Apassionata 懷有濃厚的興趣,這奠定了他的精神氣質。 「即使在今天,它仍然受到古董商的高度重視。當時,這種技術被認為是不可能生產的,」他談到複雜、閃閃發光的籃式編織設計,讓人想起柔軟、飄逸的面料。硬幣也指向華麗的 Cento 鑽石系列。 「鑽石切割領域的突破性發現。它有 100 個切面,閃耀著一種新的美感,象徵著我們為每位女性打造真正獨特的服裝的願望,」Coin 說。
Understandably, Hollywood has embraced Coin’s distinctive vision and sumptuous, red-carpet-ready pieces — especially Wicked star Cynthia Erivo. The Oscar hopeful — who’s one letter away from an EGOT — just wore loads
可以理解的是,好萊塢已經接受了科恩獨特的願景和華麗的紅毯單品——尤其是《魔法壞女巫》的主演辛西婭·埃里沃。這位奧斯卡候選人——距離 EGOT 只有一個字母——只是穿得很重
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