揭开黑暗与光明的二元性：专访 Dark'N'Core 创始人 Aizhan Beissembayeva 和 Arevik Hamar

乍一看，哈萨克斯坦设计师 Aizhan Beissembayeva 的两个品牌截然不同，甚至有些矛盾。 Arevik Hamar 是一家时装屋，过去五年来深受哈萨克斯坦精英阶层的欢迎，强调保守的女性优雅气质。

Kazakh designer Aizhan Beissembayeva is a woman of contrasts. On the one hand, she is the founder of Arevik Hamar, a couture house that has been popular among Kazakhstan's elite for the past five years. The brand emphasizes conservative feminine elegance, hewing closely to traditional notions of Kazakh beauty and style. On the other hand, Beissembayeva is also the founder of Dark'N'Core, a new label that made an explosive debut at Tashkent Fashion Week this fall. The label offers a dangerous yet sophisticated Berlin edge that is wholly new for Central Asian fashion.

哈萨克斯坦设计师 Aizhan Beissembayeva 是一位充满对比的女性。一方面，她是 Arevik Hamar 的创始人，这是一家时装屋，过去五年来深受哈萨克斯坦精英阶层的欢迎。该品牌强调保守的女性优雅，严格遵循哈萨克美丽和风格的传统观念。另一方面，Beissembayeva 也是 Dark'N'Core 的创始人，这个新品牌在今年秋天的塔什干时装周上引起了轰动。该品牌呈现出危险而精致的柏林风格，这对中亚时尚来说是全新的。

Beissembayeva's two brands differ to the point of being oxymoronic. But for the designer, they are equally ensconced in her DNA. "Dark'N'Core and Arevik Hamar are two sides of the same coin," she says. "They are the canvas upon which I translate the darkness and light that I have possessed since my childhood."

Beissembayeva 的两个品牌的差异达到了矛盾的程度。但对于设计师来说，它们同样融入了她的 DNA 中。 “Dark'N'Core 和 Arevik Hamar 是同一枚硬币的两面，”她说。 “它们是我在其上诠释我从小就拥有的黑暗与光明的画布。”

In the wake of Dark'N'Core's Tashkent show, which was received with thunderous applause by a diverse international audience, I sat down with Beissembayeva in her Astana showroom to talk her journey in fashion, the stark contrast in her brands, and Dark'N'Core's unique "intelligent dark" aesthetic.

Dark'N'Core 的塔什干时装秀受到了来自不同国际观众的雷鸣般的掌声，之后，我在 Beissembayeva 阿斯塔纳的展厅里坐下来，谈论了她的时尚之旅、她品牌中的鲜明对比以及 Dark'N'Core 的风格。 N'Core独特的“智能黑暗”美学。

From Economics to Artistry

从经济到艺术

"I have been involved in fashion since I was born," says Beissembayeva. "I was sewing with my aunt when I was a small child and made my first gown when I was five. But I originally thought that fashion should not be a profession; I viewed it as my hobby. I finished my studies in economics and took a corporate job making budgets. I found it really boring, and after I realized that the office environment was not for me, I founded my atelier."

“我从出生起就开始涉足时尚界，”Beissembayeva 说道。 “我小时候和姨妈一起缝纫，五岁时制作了我的第一件礼服。但我最初认为时尚不应该成为一种职业；我把它视为我的爱好。我完成了经济学学业，并在我觉得在公司做预算真的很无聊，当我意识到办公环境不适合我后，我创办了自己的工作室。”

A Tale of Two Brands

两个品牌的故事

"I'm most well-known for Arevik Hamar, which I've had for several years," says Beissembayeva. "What inspired you to diversify and launch Dark'N'Core?"

“我最出名的是 Arevik Hamar，我已经拥有它好几年了，”Beissembayeva 说道。 “是什么促使你多元化并推出 Dark'N'Core？”

"I was recently studying at a Russian fashion academy for nine months," she explains. "When I was making patterns there, my teachers said 'these are not something for Arevik - this is a totally new concept.' I realized that in order to express myself through these new designs I needed to start a second brand."

“我最近在俄罗斯时装学院学习了九个月，”她解释道。 “当我在那里制作图案时，我的老师说‘这些不是 Arevik 的东西 – 这是一个全新的概念。’我意识到，为了通过这些新设计表达自己，我需要创立第二个品牌。”

"How would you describe the difference between Arevik, a couture brand, and the more avant-garde Dark'N'Core?" I ask.

“您如何形容高级定制品牌 Arevik 和更前卫的 Dark'N'Core 之间的区别？”我问。

"For Arevik Hamar I am using very sensitive and expensive fabrics such as silk and cashmere," says Beissembayeva. "With Dark'N'Core, I usually use leather and different types of cotton, which I manipulate in unique ways. Dark'N'Core is mainly about working with forms. I call it 'intelligent dark' fashion."

“对于 Arevik Hamar，我使用非常敏感且昂贵的面料，例如丝绸和羊绒，”Beissembayeva 说。 “在 Dark'N'Core 中，我通常使用皮革和不同类型的棉花，并以独特的方式对其进行处理。Dark'N'Core 主要是与形式相关。我称之为‘智能黑暗’时尚。”

"The audiences for my brands are completely different; they're listening to different music and living completely different lifestyles," she continues. "But I am living both ways! When I was born, my parents first called me Arevik, which means 'sun' in the Armenian language. Two years later, they started calling me Aizhan, which means the 'moon.' These names describe my different sides, and even my interests in fashion today. Arevik is my 'sun' brand, and 'Dark'N'Core' is my 'moon' brand."

“我的品牌的受众完全不同；他们听着不同的音乐，过着完全不同的生活方式，”她继续说道。 “但我的生活是双向的！当我出生时，我的父母首先叫我Arevik，在亚美尼亚语中意思是“太阳”。两年后，他们开始叫我Aizhan，意思是“月亮”。这些名字描述了我不同的一面，甚至我今天对时尚的兴趣也是我的‘太阳’品牌，‘Dark’N’Core’是我的‘月亮’品牌。”

The Tashkent Debut

塔什干首演

"Tell me about the Dark'N'Core show in Tashkent," I say. "The collection felt very cohesive; what was your vision?"

“跟我说说塔什干的 Dark'N'Core 演出吧，”我说。 “这个系列感觉非常有凝聚力；你的愿景是什么？”

"I called the collection 'Materium,'" says Beissembayeva. "For me 'Materium' is all about being connected to subtle energies within the universe. When people have this connection, they have qualities like intuition, clarity, willpower, passion, and wisdom. These were all represented by the fabrics and colors in the show. For example, silver represented intuition, white represented wisdom, a corset represented passion, structured leather stood for willpower, and clarity was referenced by root-like forms that extended off dresses or wrapped around the models' arms."

“我将这个系列命名为‘Materium’，”Beissembayeva 说道。 “对我来说，‘物质’就是与宇宙中微妙能量的联系。当人们建立这种联系时，他们就会拥有直觉、清晰度、意志力、激情和智慧等品质。这些都通过作品中的面料和颜色来体现。例如，银色代表直觉，白色代表智慧，紧身胸衣代表激情，有结构的皮革代表意志力，而清晰的形状则由从裙子上延伸出来或缠绕在模特手臂上的根状形状所引用。”

"I love post-apocalyptic themes," she adds. "The collection was partially inspired by Diva Plavalaguna, the opera diva from The Fifth Element [an apocalyptic 1997 French sci-fi film with a cult following]. I like her persona because she is talented, she also has responsibility, and she is not scared of anything. She also has all of these serpentine connectors coming off her head, which you see referenced in the collection."

“我喜欢后世界末日主题，”她补充道。 “该系列的部分灵感来自于《第五元素》（一部 1997 年法国末日科幻电影，深受狂热追随者）中的歌剧女主角 Diva Plavalaguna。我喜欢她的角色，因为她有才华，也有责任，而且她不是她还害怕任何事情，所有这些蛇形连接器都从她的头上脱落，你可以在系列中看到这些。”

Looking Forward

期待

"What's next for Dark'N'Core and Arevik Hamar?" I ask.

“Dark'N'Core 和 Arevik Hamar 的下一步是什么？”我问。

"I want to continue to grow both brands, participating in events in Kazakhstan and also returning to Tashkent Fashion Week," says Beissembayeva. "When I debuted Dark'N

“我希望继续发展这两个品牌，参加哈萨克斯坦的活动并重返塔什干时装周，”Beissembayeva 说道。 “当我首次亮相《Dark'N》时