揭開黑暗與光明的二元性：專訪 Dark'N'Core 創辦人 Aizhan Beissembayeva 與 Arevik Hamar

乍一看，哈薩克設計師 Aizhan Beissembayeva 的兩個品牌截然不同，甚至有些矛盾。 Arevik Hamar 是一家時裝屋，過去五年來深受哈薩克精英階層的歡迎，強調保守的女性優雅氣質。

Kazakh designer Aizhan Beissembayeva is a woman of contrasts. On the one hand, she is the founder of Arevik Hamar, a couture house that has been popular among Kazakhstan's elite for the past five years. The brand emphasizes conservative feminine elegance, hewing closely to traditional notions of Kazakh beauty and style. On the other hand, Beissembayeva is also the founder of Dark'N'Core, a new label that made an explosive debut at Tashkent Fashion Week this fall. The label offers a dangerous yet sophisticated Berlin edge that is wholly new for Central Asian fashion.

哈薩克設計師 Aizhan Beissembayeva 是一位充滿對比的女性。一方面，她是Arevik Hamar時裝屋的創始人，該時裝屋在過去五年中一直深受哈薩克精英階層的歡迎。品牌強調保守的女性優雅，嚴格遵循哈薩克美麗和風格的傳統觀念。另一方面，Beissembayeva 也是 Dark'N'Core 的創始人，這個新品牌在今年秋天的塔什幹時裝週上引起了轟動。該品牌呈現出危險而精緻的柏林風格，對中亞時尚來說是全新的。

Beissembayeva's two brands differ to the point of being oxymoronic. But for the designer, they are equally ensconced in her DNA. "Dark'N'Core and Arevik Hamar are two sides of the same coin," she says. "They are the canvas upon which I translate the darkness and light that I have possessed since my childhood."

Beissembayeva 的兩個品牌的差異達到了矛盾的程度。但對設計師來說，它們同樣融入了她的 DNA 中。 「Dark'N'Core 和 Arevik Hamar 是同一枚硬幣的兩面，」她說。 “它們是我在其上詮釋我從小就擁有的黑暗與光明的畫布。”

In the wake of Dark'N'Core's Tashkent show, which was received with thunderous applause by a diverse international audience, I sat down with Beissembayeva in her Astana showroom to talk her journey in fashion, the stark contrast in her brands, and Dark'N'Core's unique "intelligent dark" aesthetic.

Dark'N'Core 的塔什幹時裝秀受到了來自不同國際觀眾的雷鳴般的掌聲，之後，我在Beissembayeva 阿斯塔納的展廳裡坐下來，談論了她的時尚之旅、她品牌中的鮮明對比以及Dark'N'Core 的風格。

From Economics to Artistry

從經濟到藝術

"I have been involved in fashion since I was born," says Beissembayeva. "I was sewing with my aunt when I was a small child and made my first gown when I was five. But I originally thought that fashion should not be a profession; I viewed it as my hobby. I finished my studies in economics and took a corporate job making budgets. I found it really boring, and after I realized that the office environment was not for me, I founded my atelier."

「我從出生起就開始涉足時尚界，」Beissembayeva 說。 「我小時候和阿姨一起縫紉，五歲時製作了我的第一件禮服。但我最初認為時尚不應該成為一種職業；我把它視為我的愛好。我完成了經濟學學業，並在我覺得在公司做預算真的很無聊，當我意識到辦公環境不適合我後，我創辦了自己的工作室。

A Tale of Two Brands

兩個品牌的故事

"I'm most well-known for Arevik Hamar, which I've had for several years," says Beissembayeva. "What inspired you to diversify and launch Dark'N'Core?"

「我最出名的是 Arevik Hamar，我已經擁有它好幾年了，」Beissembayeva 說。 “是什麼促使你多元化並推出 Dark'N'Core？”

"I was recently studying at a Russian fashion academy for nine months," she explains. "When I was making patterns there, my teachers said 'these are not something for Arevik - this is a totally new concept.' I realized that in order to express myself through these new designs I needed to start a second brand."

「我最近在俄羅斯時尚學院學習了九個月，」她解釋道。 「當我在那裡製作圖案時，我的老師說『這些不是 Arevik 的東西 – 這是一個全新的概念。’我意識到，為了透過這些新設計表達自己，我需要創立第二個品牌。

"How would you describe the difference between Arevik, a couture brand, and the more avant-garde Dark'N'Core?" I ask.

“您如何形容高級定製品牌 Arevik 和更前衛的 Dark'N'Core 之間的區別？”我問。

"For Arevik Hamar I am using very sensitive and expensive fabrics such as silk and cashmere," says Beissembayeva. "With Dark'N'Core, I usually use leather and different types of cotton, which I manipulate in unique ways. Dark'N'Core is mainly about working with forms. I call it 'intelligent dark' fashion."

「對於 Arevik Hamar，我使用非常敏感且昂貴的布料，例如絲綢和羊絨，」Beissembayeva 說。 「在Dark'N'Core 中，我通常使用皮革和不同類型的棉花，並以獨特的方式對其進行處理。Dark'N'Core 主要是與形式相關。我稱之為'智能黑暗'時尚。 」

"The audiences for my brands are completely different; they're listening to different music and living completely different lifestyles," she continues. "But I am living both ways! When I was born, my parents first called me Arevik, which means 'sun' in the Armenian language. Two years later, they started calling me Aizhan, which means the 'moon.' These names describe my different sides, and even my interests in fashion today. Arevik is my 'sun' brand, and 'Dark'N'Core' is my 'moon' brand."

「我的品牌的受眾完全不同；他們聽著不同的音樂，過著完全不同的生活方式，」她繼續說道。 「但我的生活是雙向的！當我出生時，我的父母首先叫我Arevik，在亞美尼亞語中意思是『太陽』。兩年後，他們開始叫我Aizhan，意思是『月亮』。這些名字描述了我不同的一面，甚至我今天對時尚的興趣也是我的‘太陽’品牌，‘Dark’N’Core’是我的‘月亮’品牌。

The Tashkent Debut

塔什幹首演

"Tell me about the Dark'N'Core show in Tashkent," I say. "The collection felt very cohesive; what was your vision?"

「跟我說說塔什幹的 Dark'N'Core 演出吧，」我說。 「這個系列感覺非常有凝聚力；你的願景是什麼？”

"I called the collection 'Materium,'" says Beissembayeva. "For me 'Materium' is all about being connected to subtle energies within the universe. When people have this connection, they have qualities like intuition, clarity, willpower, passion, and wisdom. These were all represented by the fabrics and colors in the show. For example, silver represented intuition, white represented wisdom, a corset represented passion, structured leather stood for willpower, and clarity was referenced by root-like forms that extended off dresses or wrapped around the models' arms."

“我將這個系列命名為‘Materium’，”Beissembayeva 說。 「對我來說，『物質』就是與宇宙中微妙能量的連結。當人們建立這種連結時，他們就會擁有直覺、清晰度、意志力、激情和智慧等品質。這些都透過作品中的面料和顏色來體現。形狀所引用。

"I love post-apocalyptic themes," she adds. "The collection was partially inspired by Diva Plavalaguna, the opera diva from The Fifth Element [an apocalyptic 1997 French sci-fi film with a cult following]. I like her persona because she is talented, she also has responsibility, and she is not scared of anything. She also has all of these serpentine connectors coming off her head, which you see referenced in the collection."

「我喜歡後世界末日主題，」她補充道。 「系列的部分靈感來自《第五元素》（一部1997 年法國末日科幻電影，深受狂熱追隨者）中的歌劇女主角Diva Plavalaguna。我喜歡她的角色，因為她有才華，也有責任，而且她不是她還害怕任何事情，所有這些蛇形連接器都從她的頭上脫落，你可以在系列中看到這些。

Looking Forward

期待

"What's next for Dark'N'Core and Arevik Hamar?" I ask.

“Dark'N'Core 和 Arevik Hamar 的下一步是什麼？”我問。

"I want to continue to grow both brands, participating in events in Kazakhstan and also returning to Tashkent Fashion Week," says Beissembayeva. "When I debuted Dark'N

「我希望繼續發展這兩個品牌，參加哈薩克的活動並重返塔什幹時裝週，」Beissembayeva 說。 「當我首次亮相《Dark'N》時