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在九月号的《GQ》中,我写了一篇关于手表界关于微型手表和超大手表之间激烈争论的文章。
The watch world has been abuzz with a raging debate in recent years: teeny-tiny watches versus their outsized counterparts. A loud contingent has refused to cage their epic 45-mm wristwear, but the tug-of-war has decidedly gone toward teensy pieces.
近年来,手表界一直充斥着一场激烈的争论:微型手表与超大手表的争论。一些大声喧哗的队伍拒绝展示他们史诗般的 45 毫米腕表,但拉锯战显然已经转向了小型作品。
This trend took another critical hit this weekend at the Annual Academy Museum Gala, where Paul Mescal and Dwyane Wade showed up with some revealing weaponry of choice. Wade wore the Tiffany & Co. Eternity watch, a 28-mm ladies watch that's smaller than a half-dollar coin, while October’s GQ cover star Mescal chose the diminutive watch of 2024: a bite-sized version of the Cartier Tank.
这一趋势在本周末的学院博物馆年度晚会上再次受到严重打击,保罗·梅斯卡尔和德怀恩·韦德带着一些精选的暴露武器亮相。韦德佩戴的是 Tiffany & Co. Eternity 手表,这是一款 28 毫米的女士手表,比半美元硬币还小,而 10 月的《GQ》封面明星 Mescal 选择了 2024 年的小型手表:一口大小的卡地亚 Tank 手表。
While watches have been trending smaller, with some adventurous dressers like Timothée Chamalet and Bad Bunny sporting ladies’ watches, it's now fully breaking into the mainstream. To explain this in Pokémon terms, since that's what we're all familiar with, right?: You gave your trend a Paul Mescal Stone. What? Your trend is evolving! Congratulations, it's now the mainstream aesthetic!
虽然手表一直在变小,一些喜欢冒险的着装者如 Timothée Chamalet 和 Bad Bunny 也开始佩戴女士手表,但它现在已完全进入主流。用神奇宝贝术语来解释这一点,因为这是我们都熟悉的,对吧?:你给了你的趋势保罗梅斯卡石。什么?你的趋势正在演变!恭喜你,它现在已经成为主流审美了!
Mescal's tiny Tank was one of the conversation pieces at this year’s Watches & Wonders, the industry's biggest tradeshow. The shrunken Tank replicates its larger counterpart in every way, providing all of the iconic Cartier details in smaller packaging. Much smaller: The TTT (teeny-tiny Tank) measures in at an adorable 24 by 16.5 mm.
Mescal 的小型 Tank 是今年业内最大的贸易展 Watches & Wonders 上的热门话题之一。缩小后的 Tank 在各个方面都复制了较大的坦克,在较小的包装中提供了卡地亚的所有标志性细节。更小:TTT(极小坦克)的尺寸为可爱的 24 x 16.5 毫米。
The TTT was Cartier’s follow-up to 2023's smash-hit Bagnoire Bangle, a product the Parisian jeweler still can't keep in stock. I bring the Bangle up because it demonstrates how quickly trends can move. While many male collectors acknowledged the beauty of the Bangle upon its release, few dared to actually wear it. Even those who did, like the super stylish Mark Cho, wore it as a bracelet and hid it under suit sleeves. Now, just a year later, celebrities are proudly wearing equally small watches on the red carpet.
TTT 是卡地亚 (Cartier) 继 2023 年风靡一时的 Bagnoire 手镯之后推出的一款产品,而这家巴黎珠宝商至今仍缺货。我提到手镯是因为它展示了趋势的变化有多快。虽然许多男性收藏家在手镯发布时都承认它的美丽,但很少有人敢真正佩戴它。即使是那些这样做的人,比如超级时尚的 Mark Cho,也将它作为手镯佩戴,并将其藏在西装袖子下。现在,仅仅一年后,名人就自豪地在红地毯上佩戴同样的小手表。
It wasn't just Mescal riding the delightfully small ripples of the tiny watch trend. Wade showed up to the same event with an equally pint-sized piece. Wade takes his wristwear seriously—so much so that his stylist Jason Bolden told me he hems his client's suit sleeves a touch shorter to set the stage for his watches. That makes Wade's fashion statement last night ring that much louder.
不仅仅是麦斯卡酒在微型手表潮流中掀起令人愉悦的小涟漪。韦德带着同样小一品脱的作品出现在同一场活动中。韦德对待他的腕表非常认真,以至于他的造型师 Jason Bolden 告诉我,他将客户的西装袖子剪短了一点,为他的手表奠定了基础。这使得韦德昨晚的时尚宣言听起来更加响亮。
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