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许多有自尊心的时尚记者花了很多时间来抒情地谈论波西米亚风波西米亚风尚的辉煌岁月,哪怕是最模糊的嗅觉。
Coin belts are officially back in style. Fashion journalists have been eagerly awaiting the return of boho fashion, and it seems that Chemena Kamali at Chloé has finally granted the divisive decorative accessory a loop hole through which to wiggle.
零钱腰带正式回归时尚。时尚记者们一直在热切地等待波西米亚风潮的回归,Chloé 的 Chemena Kamali 似乎终于为这种引起争议的装饰配饰提供了一个可以摆动的漏洞。
In fact, the coin belt’s return has been a multi-pronged attack. Exhibit one: All Saints’s rerelease of its Kate-backed belt, which landed on my desk as summer came to a close. (The strip of leather nostalgia remains in its packaging.) Exhibit two: M&S’s collaboration with Sienna included, amongst the usual-suspect slips, broderie anglaise blouses and quilted jackets, a belt bespangled with silver coinage. Exhibit three: Vogue’s Julia Hobbs clipping some beloved metallic bijoux around her dress before dashing to a recent Dover Street Market event. Hobbs said that her family ribs her for still wearing the teenage trinket, but in the cold light of the office, she made the most convincing proposition for buckling up again.
事实上,币带的回归是多管齐下的。展品一:All Saints 重新推出了凯特背衬腰带,随着夏天的结束,它出现在我的桌子上。 (包装中仍保留着怀旧的皮革条带。) 展品二:玛莎百货与 Sienna 的合作,除了常见的衬裙、马德拉刺绣衬衫和绗缝夹克之外,还包括一条饰有银币的腰带。证据三:《Vogue》杂志的朱莉娅·霍布斯 (Julia Hobbs) 在奔赴最近的多佛街市场活动之前,在裙子周围剪了一些心爱的金属首饰。霍布斯说,她的家人因为她仍然戴着十几岁的小饰品而嘲笑她,但在办公室的冷光下,她提出了最令人信服的建议,要求重新系好安全带。
Until, that is, exhibit four: the Miu Miu spring/summer 2025 show saw models, including Alexa Chung, Little Simz and Nicole Kidman Junior, walk the runway with multiple metallic strands laden with charms cinched around the brand’s requisite PE pants.
直到展览四:Miu Miu 2025 年春夏秀场上,Alexa Chung、Little Simz 和 Nicole Kidman Junior 等模特在秀场上展示了多条饰有饰物的金属线,并系在该品牌必备的 PE 裤上。
No small change was involved in the making of Mrs Prada’s mismatching clunky chains – some tightly wound like butchers’ curtains, others sprouting armour-like flowers. The Miu Miu muse is too cool to acknowledge the Gladiator-adjacent timing or Marks and Sparks’s affordable take on the nostalgic appendage (Miller’s high-street collab has been renewed for a second season). We know she’s messy, but now we understand what’s been laying dormant in the bottom of those over-stuffed Arcadie bags: hardware from a bygone decade that suddenly feels fresh during a transitional period in which quiet luxury is being trampled out by anything-goes childlike maximalism.
普拉达夫人那条不相配的笨重链条的制作过程中涉及到不小的变化——有些像屠夫的窗帘一样紧紧缠绕,有些则像盔甲一样绽放花朵。 Miu Miu 的缪斯女神太酷了,以至于无法承认与《角斗士》相邻的时间安排或 Marks and Sparks 对怀旧附属物的实惠演绎(米勒的高街合作已续订第二季)。我们知道她很邋遢,但现在我们明白了那些塞满了东西的Arcadie包的底部隐藏着什么:过去十年的硬件,在一个过渡时期突然感觉新鲜,在这个过渡时期,安静的奢华被任何孩子气的东西践踏极简主义。
While Chloé girls will jangle their way through life with their looping logo belts and bracelet bags and antique bloomers, Team Miuccia throw their clinking numbers on over swimsuits in line with the hasty dressing that was more of a vibe than trad boho was during the recent show season. The coin belt 2.0 is less about floating serenely into a room with a whisper of Gypsy Water behind you, it’s about rushing around and using that chainmail as a kind of shield against modern-day life. Next season’s style diktat is weird and wonderful – all crumpled fabrics, gravity-defying hemlines and ’80s accents – so useless belts (see also: Chanel’s dainty double-C body chains and Ralph Lauren’s hardware-adorned ropes) are right at home in this quagmire of ideas.
Chloé 女孩们会用环形徽标腰带、手镯包和古董灯笼裤在生活中叮当作响,而 Miuccia 团队则将叮当作响的数字穿在泳衣外面,与最近时装秀中比传统波西米亚风格的仓促着装相一致。季节。硬币腰带 2.0 不再是平静地漂浮在一个房间里,背后有吉普赛水的低语,而是四处奔波,并使用链甲作为抵御现代生活的盾牌。下一季的风格指令既怪异又美妙——所有皱巴巴的面料、反重力的裙边和 80 年代的口音——所以无用的腰带(另见:香奈儿精致的双 C 身体链条和拉尔夫·劳伦的金属装饰绳索)在这季中恰到好处。思想的泥潭。
Where Mrs Prada goes, the industry follows. See you for next season’s dispatch on the coin belt 3.0.
普拉达夫人走到哪里,整个行业就跟到哪里。下赛季金币带3.0 派遣见。
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